Conception – 5.13b


32m / 105ft, 16 bolts
FA: Maddy Marchuk - 2019-08-23

Description:

Climbs the overhanging prow right of Pandora, high above the "Sea of Holes" at Lower Acephale.

Climb Badger Crack (5.7+), at the 7th bolt continue to trend right through easy climbing to a no hands rest at the base of the prow. Launch into steeper climbing strait up to a fixed chain-draw then trend right. At the upper roof escape left to the anchors through some tricky moves that may prove to be problematic if you are pumped...Enjoy!

Proposed grade is 13b.

The right variation climbing strait out the roof is called Contraception and goes at 13+.

16 Bolts (4 are generally fixed with long slings) - 30m - Clip-n-Go Anchors

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13b
    2025-09-09
    Steep, powerful, and fun climbing from the no-hands. Classic thuggery
  • 5.13b
    2025-08-28
    Steep and burley! Went quicker than I thought it would!
  • 5.13b
    2025-08-21
    Really awesome line! My personal crux was the move to the last hold (where you clip the anchor) - was able to use a sloping rail up and right from the grey pinch to go left hand to the final hold.
  • 5.13b
    2024-07-30
    power and flow. started to actually enjoy the beginning section to the no-hands rest
  • 5.13b
    2024-07-27
    Sent on vibes with the whole crew. To whoever stole my shoes and kneepad: https://youtu.be/jZOywn1qArI?si=GuAQdHlhhMxqeUKk