Crazy Doctor – 5.12a


17m / 56ft, 5 bolts

Description:

This excellent thin and technical slab is a spicy lead. The name is a reference to enhanced small features found on the wall prior to bolting - not by the bolter.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz (mid-1990s)

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12a
    2024-09-15
    First sport climb for me, have no idea about grades yet
  • 5.12a
    2024-05-28
    3rd go. I Used the left side pull but not clear to me how much easier it makes it- you still have to go through all the terrible crimps and thumb stuff which is a fun crux to work out! Going left just gives and extra rest, but going only direct you'd be able to recover in jugs after crux anyway...
  • 5.12b
    2023-09-17
    I went straight up the face avoiding the jugs out left, good flow and technical crimps. I think going left is fine as well at a lower grade but it takes away from the quality and difficulty.
  • 5.12b
    2023-07-05
    Did what I believe to be the intended 12b line without climbing left to skip the crux. Still felt a little soft for 12b.
  • 5.11c
    2023-06-06
    stupid contrived. Climbs probably like soft 11c (Don't use the bomber left side pull but use the bomber left ledge to rest after doing the contrived crux that has glued and chipped holds haha)