Cruel Shoes – 5.10d (trad)
Description:
6 pitch route that weaves through interesting features to the belay at the base of Split Pillar.
Pitch 1 : Either start on The Flake or Apron Strings pitch 1 (better) to a belay out right at the base of a wide chimney. 10b
Pitch 2 : A few moves in the chimney lead to some face climbing that gains a flake up it to some tricky moves past a pin and later a bolt. 10d
Pitch 3 : Dead horizontal traverse heading right to an out of view belay in a corner. Put your thinking cap on! 10b
Pitch 4 : Up a corner past a mix of bolts and gear. Cool pitch, thin in spots. 10c
Pitch 5 : Climb back left and climb a short steep wall with no gear to a bolt on a ledge. Keep traversing left with no gear, then get creative and find something. Runout climbing leads up to another bolt and the belay. This is not very hard but falling is not an option. 5.9 R
Pitch 6 : From the belay move right and up a curving line following a line of edges and closely spaced bolts, eventually heading left horizontally to join the belay at the base of the Split Pillar. 10d
From here, rappel with 2 ropes, or continue up the Grand Wall for the classic finish.
Recent Sendage:
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2024-08-19 -
2024-07-03
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2024-07-03Slipped on the last pitch and then freed the rest of the pitch starting from a no hands ledge. Not quite the perfect redpoint style but I'll take the send* -
2023-09-10 -
2022-09-30great route, linked into the Grand. What a week!
