Ice Box of Broken Dreams – 5.12d
18m / 59ft, 8 bolts
Show Beta
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duncangregson: BOTTOM: left hand good jug edge, right hand up to sidepull pinch, walk right foot to diagonal foot, left to high slopey tick at waist. fire to large slopey edge. match, up right to sidepull pinch, left hand to sidepull crimp, bump right to highest sidepull. right foot to high hidden diagonal incut foot, layback right hand to get left foot high on edge. reach high left hand to crimp sidepull, bump right foot slightly to good edge. right hand match overtop. TOP: from large flake, cross right hand to pinch, reach high left hand to a dish crimp, (up and left from first slopey crimp), heel hook bottom of flake, match right hand to first slopey crimp. crunch right foot high to slopey edge. crank to right hand jug. get the right hand on the undercling sidepull just above. reach left hand to prickle crimp out left. heel the right hand jug. reach right hand to shallow gaston crimp in the tiny crack straight up. switch heel to toe, crank on hands and right foot to get left foot up to a small slopey foot, trust it, reach left hand to crimp up and left. high right foot. then reach right hand to decent edge. u did it Spencer good job -
Maddy Marchuk: Don't be a tosser and use the rock pile to start. Either jump from the ground or use the holds available to get to the jug...
Recent Sendage:
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Pretty good climb even now that the flake jug is gone -
Super cool cruxes! Psyched to get this on the fifth attempt after spending a session working on it. -
stoked to be able to put this together in 2 days -
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First 12 donkey in a day. Didnt try it before the upper section had the big chunk of rock come off but it climbs super well now. An approachable bow valley 12d.
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Went first go of the day after cleaning up around the flake post-break… definitely needs a bit more. 5 tries in total, loved the beta that I figured out for myself.
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2023-08-06
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Aboard the send train! Thanks Nate, Blaze and others for beta/stoke -
I thought it would go quick but turned into a marathon. My 5th go of the day it finally went... -
came down to not climbing it like an idiot... its me, im the idiot
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Really enjoyed the bottom crux and thought the moves were really cool, unlike anything else I’ve done. I felt pretty pumped after the second crux, and am glad I made it to the chains.
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2023-07-03 -
Another 2nd go story at Upper Ace. -
2023-06-04 -
stuck first move due to winter of kilterboarding -
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IJsbrand van gebroken dromen -
The flexy flake is disconcerting... Fun boulder problem down low with some tricky slab up top. -
Definitely no need to French start. Found the bottom bit tough! -
2021-08-06Matt's beta spray ability is unmatched. -
Bolder problem -
Third go!! -
Fell off the last hard move on my flash attempt. Went 2nd go -
Fun climbing on v small crimps, separated by an easier section in the middle. -
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3 hard sections with very different feelings to them. Super route -
2021-06-12
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So good!
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Such a cool route. Did it last day of the the season for me. Good 2nd warmup apart from the start. -
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Sent this after Endless, to completely demolish my finger skin. Excellent techy climb, I really enjoyed it. 06520 -
A very moist and sweaty day at upper. Was even warm enough to take a nice nap. Delightful! -
ouchy first move -
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Tough start leads to easier climbing through to the chains. Fun route!
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Excellent movement and stone into and out of the pockets following the flake undercling. -
Stoked to nab it relatively quick. Bouldery start, but still kinda felt like my style. Great route! I really enjoyed the climbing on this one! -
Got on this earlier in the week while "project shopping." The climbing was near sublime, and the shopping came to a premature and abrupt end. A fun, easy-to-read, extended boulder problem leads to excellent moves all the way to the chains. -
Pulled some chunks out of the chossy flake on the send go. Overall a super awesome route. -
2018-07-28Much easier than 39 steps. -
Kind of a wild ride. Hard to grade because the physical business is right off the ground, but its definitely not over when you hit the slab.
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First 12+, one month back into climbing after taking 2 months off -
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At first I didn't like it...but I changed my mind pretty fast, it's really fun! At the start of the year I remember looking at the guide book thinking "I will never ever climb this wall they call The Pavement, it looks miserable". Well, one short season at Acephale and I can say The Pavement is F***'in awesome!!!
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White men can jump. Step down from 39 steps for me. 2nd go -
More holds came off on my ascent.
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2017-06-25 -
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i will never get endurance will i... -
great route. really fun initial boulder, good rest, top is easier but fun. little bit tricky at the top with a pump. managed a second go despite the wet holds.
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5.12dAnonymous User2015-09-13
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2015-09-01So much projecting lately...its nice to change up the pace a little and actually send something. Pretty cool climb that is quite different than everything in the main Upper Wall. Thanks to Kim for persuading me to do this one :)
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Such a delightful route. The opening moves are tough! No joke, it probably took me about 75 tries to get off the ground over the past two days.... sent the first time I stuck it!
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First of the grade for me and took me a long time to project.
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Second try. Amazing new route. Like 39 Step's little sister :)
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rad route
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Cool, tall man Beta at upper crux.
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sorry guys I did two MARSHALL
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3 hold broke since my first try
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bouldery a la pavement sector. Definitely acephale's best :)
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Fun fun climb, get on it when it's dry :)
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onsights6
flashes72
redpointsTotal Sends: 79
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