It's About Time – V5 ↑
Description:
Start matched on a sloper, heel hooking or toe hooking the arete. Move right to the arete and then up. This climb can be both techy and powerful.
Show Beta
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Francois Bergeron: I used the right knee scum beta
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lindakuo1: Inside roundhouse kick to heel hook -
Sarah: Double heel split beta :) -
Quang Huynh: A second bump and dead point to crimp (no left heel) because I'm not flexible -
Ruel Neuman: If I remember right, I did a right toe hook and the kept it while getting a left heel hook. Very flexy, but makes the next move quite easy. -
Tianna Baker: Double heel hook! -
Noah Letkemann: Matched the right pinch instead of using the crimps, and crossed through right to the sidepull edge. -
chloek: Low percentage 2nd move. Felt hard for a 5 but super fun movement. -
Jesse Clark: Somehow kneebared most of this climb. Not the first two moves but everything else.
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nickbruce: Once the left hand was moved into the sidepull, I tossed a high left heel and threw straight to the jug since that broken hold seemed low percentage -
ryannelson: I wore a sweatshirt cause the meathook was shredding my arm...
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Greg Bauch: Left foot on starting hold to go up -
Scott Benish: Reach right to arete, shift your weight to the right, fall in to the micro-dish in the sloper with your left, then flip your right hand around the arete so your forearm is against the right side of the arete. -
Daniel Young: start with a heel around the arete. Greatly reduces the power needed for the first move. I also bicycle with my other foot as I move right.
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Simon Rose: Get your weight all the way right before letting go with the left hand. -
Trevor Edwards: Start both feet under the roof.. no heel hook :)
Recent Sendage:
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Went with the right heel and deadpoint to left crimp. Definitely not ideal beta
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Conditions could have helped with this one! -
Freaky heel beta was 11/10
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Fun problem, good to have a local's beta.
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2024-07-20 -
finally -
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2024-03-31Big comfy couch ccw beta -
2024-03-24 -
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Definitely a repeat
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Felt impossible until it didn't, unexpectedly chill on the go. The inside heel beta is awkward but not all that hard. -
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Terminal -
Cool lil heel hooks
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Funky kung fu style.
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Weird inside heel hook move -
2023-08-19
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I bring shame to 100 generations of my offspring for using a kneepad -
Getting the left heel was a very strange move. First time I stuck that, I went to a hold below the great crimp and immediately fell off. Oops.
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2023-07-29
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Many beta options
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revenge climb after it took an a4 in 2018. this thing is nails and not very fun
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Really nice shape and super cool beta with the heel hook. Vid above -
Inside heel hook felt impossible until I found the right position
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Make the first move, drag your left foot up and through your body all the way to the left start hold, bump bump: thought I wasn’t flexible enough until a guy came over and demonstrated. So strange
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2023-06-04
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The move to cut the swing was tough, opted for a left heel on the start holds for an easier time. Felt a lot harder with a freshly popped a4 pinkie lol
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Felt pretty hard! -
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2023-05-19 -
Didn;t really understand it but I did it
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Tried this on one of my early trips to Squamish. Still hard. -
Hadn’t touched this thing in over 5 years when it gave me, my first finger injury. Happy to come back stronger and put it to rest -
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A decade between attempts? It was about time :) so wild to go from impossible to doable with just a bit of adjustment -
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2022-08-21
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Iis about time I did this one. I didnt know how much I needed to do it until I saw it. Trickier than it looks and glossy. So fun! Surprisingly technical with the kneebar but then throw technique out the window and just dyno to the crimp hahaha -
2022-06-26
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2022-06-26 -
2022-05-27 -
2022-04-23
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Not sure I would say top 100. More aesthetic than fun. Happy to come back and finish it after trying it probably 5 years ago.
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Finally! Blessed by beautiful conditions. Went pretty quick in the day.
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2nd try
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Knee bar pad and right hand bump -
Felt hard until you hit that drop move once, and then it’s repeatable every time. Sent with a couple diff betas for fun
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Almost like being in the gym. 2 burns.
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Felt tough at the end of a long day but totally reasonable fresh. Some super cool movement on this.
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Definitely the hardest v5 I've encoutered.. but awesome! Tried the flexy beta that avoids the "catch move " move, but honestly I didn't feel like it was easier that way. Meat hook on the arete after the catch move saved the day -
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Surprised to get this day one because it felt impossible at first! -
It's really ABOUT TIME. Found a unique beta that worked for me!
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Pretty tough for the grade! Don’t always trust the guidebook start too
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Awesome sequence, managed to day flash this after having worked the moves a bit last season.
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Hard -
Harder than almost all of the V6s in Squamish. -
2020-11-07
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Longest standing post-project project. Maybe V5, felt like a soft V6 to me. -
Years of failure finally rectified by a "pornographic" heel hook -
2020-09-15a good rock climb
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Not so bad once you figure out where to put your heels -
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2020-07-18Threaded the left heel to the starting hold instead of dropping in to the next hold. Looks ridiculous but it works! -
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awesome. interesting moves
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2020-07-04
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Hard! -
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2019-10-12
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2019-09-02 -
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This thing gave me tendonitis, glad to be done with it
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2019-08-06 -
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Too tired to do the throw to the crimp after doing the bump in with the left hand so I figured out some beta to go up the arete instead. Cool problem happy to do it in one session!
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2019-06-02
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Feels great when everything comes together. This took a while, but well worth it.
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2019-02-24 -
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Phenomenal climb! Interesting beta!
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3 goes? 10 min...used left toe hook to fall into the crimp. This thing is sucky.
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2018-08-17 -
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2018-08-12...took me 3 sessions over a span of 4 years of getting better at climbing...
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As the name states, It was about time. -
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Wonderful. Not as hard as I thought with the right beta.
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Un de mes probleme prefere Le beta est pas facile a trouve. It's about time to change the grade -
9 years later -
Super fun movement
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Might be my favourite V5. Went faster than expected based on it's rep as a tough 5. Holds up for sure. -
2018-05-05
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Yessssss! Finally! Felt easy once I trusted the left heel. -
The move up to the crimp after the fall in felt hard.
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2017-08-24
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Wow!!! Once you figure out the beta it goes from impossible to amazing. I can see why it's top 100.
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This was a battle! Took way too much time and skin to send -
2017-07-29 -
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Amazing! Sooooo good and so hard. First V5 in Squamish! -
Finally!
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It's about ... one move long. -
I mean, yup
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V5 ↑Anonymous User2017-05-20
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Figured out some sneaky beta... Ha! Finally! -
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Tried it once a few years ago. Tricky opening moves.
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2016-08-28
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Besides Athletes Die Young, this is likely the the hardest V5 I've ever done. Liked the tension move falling into the intermediate crimp, but the t-rex compression afterwards was not very enjoyable.
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Nemesis problem put to bed!
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2016-07-22
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2016-07-21
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2016-06-27Not my favourite... #negativenancy
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interesting
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2016-04-14
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It's about freakin time! Such an awesome bouldering problem. Didn't think I could've done the catch, but today was the day!
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Arduous. -
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2015-08-21
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2015-07-31 -
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2015-07-04
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third try, high left heel hook. and some grr!
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2015-04-19
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Two demanding moves for me.
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2015-04-10
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It's about fucking time. I found this thing really hard and tore myself a nice flapper before sending. -
2015-03-04Its about time I sent this.. Har har
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The catch move took me the longest to figure out, after that went problem was done shortly after
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It was quite the battle. I had a few war grunts, and a super hideous mantle. -
A striking line.
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I don't know what to say. It's about time. I had a lot of trouble with this one.
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Such a sweet climb! -
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About time..
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Finally, it took forever to send this one
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2014-08-14
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repeated for 360 vpoint day
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It IS about time!
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Powerful!
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2014-06-09
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So weird. Super classic or idiotic? I can't decide which. Everyone must climb this so we can decide the answer to this question. -
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2013-09-11 -
2013-09-04
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Super weird and burly. Would love to see someone tech their way up it. -
2013-08-08
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2013-08-04
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My first 5. -
2013-07-05Okay, So I got this first try today and I don't think I have tried it before but I really do not remember... Super fun though
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2013-07-03
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V5Anonymous User2013-06-01
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2013-05-26
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hurt heel slipping off of heel hook but tough fun climb -
2012-08-01
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V5Anonymous User2012-07-19
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3rd try, found some beta that worked for me. Powerful.
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Reachy bump.
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2012-06-25
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2012-06-19
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I'd sent this before, but it felt a lot better on coming back to it.
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Super good.
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2011-09-03with heel hook beta
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super tricky. i just burled through it because that technical stuff takes too long to work out.
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Great problem!
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Tricky and hard.
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Fun stuff
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haaard V5
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Unique -
Nice and balancy.
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easier than last year but solid for the grade,
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2010-10-04
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Fun
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V5Anonymous User2010-07-06
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Great problem... one of my favourites.
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Fun -
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Onsighted this years ago but always struggle to repeat it... Very hard for the grade ( for me ).
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did the split..
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Radical
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first v6
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2007-08-01 -
Tough for me! Bonus points for not starting with both feet underneath!
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good -
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2002-06-25 -
2000-09-24
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Really cool movement.
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One of my favourites so far
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Absolutly loved this climb. I enjoyed those big moves!!
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V5 ↑Anonymous User
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Took longer then expected, fell on the last move a couple times. -
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Classic! Good luck taking this mega line down this season, Jonah! -
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5
onsights16
flashes293
redpointsTotal Sends: 314
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