Kangaroo Corner – 5.11a (trad)
Description:
This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.
Show Beta
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eddiecai: Snuck a tiny grey nut into the thin crack to protect the crux. Finished the bottom portion of the climb using only 2 nuts total. Runout? Didn't feel like it
Recent Sendage:
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A little embarrassing how long it took me to sort out the beta on this.
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Placing gear looked scarier than just giving er so did it as a Boulder
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Short and sweet! Really good laybacking and stemming, feels secure if you pick good feet.
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2023-09-12 -
First 11a on gear!
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2023-05-282nd go, first 11a trad!
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2023-04-18
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boulder
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2022-10-15 -
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2022-07-29Solo
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1st trad lead after copious copious practice runs. fun fun for the smol fings -
First 5.11 trad -
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Blew the onsight!! LOL
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Short lived fun in a corner -
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2021-09-02 -
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small ladies' first 11
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Short but really good, first 11 A trad, got it my second try! -
Very thin but good -
2021-06-12 -
2021-05-28
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TR’d a long, long time ago. First go today with some downclimbing to grab RPs -
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first 11 on gear!
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Sweet! Super fun! Wore my Instincts instead of my trad shoes, haha. -
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Really fun! Absolutely classic. I know it's been 11a forever but comparing this to other Squamish 10's and 11s this thing has to be like 10c/V1 right?
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2020-06-24
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2020-03-25TR flashed first then came back and got it on the first lead attempt. Probably more like 10b/c. Fun moves, easy gear, wish it was longer.
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2019-11-01Foot slip stole the flash. A fun change from the standard crack climbing of the smoke bluffs.
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2019-06-17
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2019-06-15felt like using the drill hole for a wide left foot made it easier than 11a.
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Took an on-stretch ground fall on my onsite attempt after a bit of a finger size related surprise, but after a few attempts to figure out the crux I topped it, lowered, took a nice big rest, then sent! In the midday sun no less... -
Short but fun! Tried it on TR, then got it on lead first try. -
Pleasant movement
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Another awesome highball, gonna come back and try the rest in smoke bluffs -
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2017-09-16
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First hard lead on trad. so fun!
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2017-06-26
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2017-06-19
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First trad climb!
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First 11a! Pinkpointed on the first session, and then took me a couple more to get the redpoint. -
great climbing short and techey
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5.11aAnonymous User2016-09-06
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2016-06-26
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2016-06-17
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2016-06-13 -
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I finally sent my first 11a! My hardest trad route to date! :D Was rather exciting to fall on the smallest RP before getting the redpoint :S
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Slippery feet -
I love this type of climb. Short but sweet!
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2014-04-29
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2014-04-10Bouldered this one
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My first 5.11 trad lead. Short but sweet.
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First lead fall on gear... that I placed :) eek!
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2013-10-06preplaced pro -
Took a few tries to link this on lead. Short, but fun climb! -
2012-11-152nd go, first 11 on gear -
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2012-07-22first lead, 9th climb of the day.
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Beautiful climb... My first 5.11! just so happend that we climbed it without ropes, we used five pads instead. -
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2011-06-18
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Bit of a boulder problem low on thin gear. Good foot work on the left wall unlocks the problem.
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short and cool thiny crack(not sure of the date)
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2001-06-16
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First 11
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2018? Beginner lead
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Shawn was kind enough to take me on a trad day sometime in 08/2016. -
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Physical and fun while it lasts. Only placed nuts...
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After many frustrating tries over a couple of trips I sent first go of the most recent trip and it felt easy... yay? -
Intimidating at first, until you figure out the beta. Very bomber locks. Can get very very good protection in, but only if you trust tiny things.
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Bouldered it -
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21
onsights17
flashes91
redpointsTotal Sends: 129
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