No U-Turn – V3 ↑
Description:
Start matched on obvious lower edge in the middle of the Danzig boulder between Pothole & Life O'Reilly. Summon your technique and zen to move up through slick feet to the upper block. Top out.
It's a Glen Rite of Passage!
Show Beta
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anson.ascends: use the lower foothold with left leg, throw left hand to the y cross, one more throw with right to the jug that looks like a sloper -
maranathakim: Short-ish beta: Step up left foot on to glass ledge and throw left hand directly from the starting match to the right edge of the good v shaped hold. Use the good right foot smear (underneath the more obvious but glassy nub) to hit the good right hand gaston adjacent to left hand. Get right foot up to the starting hold and flag out way left and throw right hand to the right end of the obvious ledge. Easy from there.
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nathanchow: Short-Person Beta: Yes U-Turn... 3 straight lefts before getting into the juggy section. -
Khan Kan: Undercling: second move
Recent Sendage:
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Repeat send! such a sick climb. Originally sent this a couple of years back. For this send, I finished out right (chalky jug), and if you're small, you may cut. Originally, I finished to the left, and it's much more secure.
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2025-06-07
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Good fun. More foot options than the rumors would say.
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Low-key harder than most 5s I've done but okay. -
memories
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2024-11-02threw away my flash attempt in 2024, came back stronger this year with a dayflash
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Tricky first move, but once I finally got it, the rest came together quickly.
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Great way to end off the year; last climb of the night. Mint conditions in the snow and a bit scary top cuz it was drenched. Big ups Markus and Franco for the support and shoutout the beavers Leo & Alan and others!! -
2023-11-12
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Kinda fun, kinda meh, very glass
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Absolute classic, incredibly sick moves
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2023-09-01Just campus it for cryin out loud
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Great warmup, polished feet but good enough
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Classic. -
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Banger, feels like a campus board (maybe I should use my feet more) -
so glad I saw the jugs at the end
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best 3 in glen possibly world
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2023-04-02
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Sucks because it’s greasy as hell -
Took a few attempts to move through the start but once I hit the jugs it was over. -
Finally. V11 for sure
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Hardest climb at glen
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i hated this climb, too greasy. classic back in the old days im sure
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Goddamn
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2022-06-25
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Super fun!
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Feels hard to me and also really glassy and not enjoyable.
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2022-05-21Did this boulder in the winter but repeated today. Some of the best movement on the most polished feet
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2022-04-24 -
Classic!
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2022-04-12
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Easily the hardest V3 I've done and harder than some V4's. Glossy feet, powerful moves, some sharp holds, high commitment and a rough tough out. V4- to V4. -
make sure to check how your hair looks in the first foothold -
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Sent 2nd try! Really fun climb -
2021-05-27FINALLY
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The anti-beta is use the wrong hand for every move.
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: )
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Hard 3 cause of the feet
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Tough V3!
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Finally! Stoked to have finished THE Glen classic V1/V3 -
Friction was so good today! -
Whew, finally sent this classic V3. Pretty fun movements actually.
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MY LONGEST PROJ EVER Kappa. This climb is eh. Pothole is better.
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Classic climb with tons of different betas
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2020-10-25
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Finally!!! Way too many attempts ended with slipping off the glass feet at the beginning -
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worked on this for TOO LONG; the polished feet make the first move crazy hard for V3. i'm sure it was easier 20 years ago LOL. once you find the footholds that work for your height, the first move should go every time though. -
2020-09-26
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2020-09-14Classic fun warmup
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Great warmup climb. Slightly overhung boulder with good holds. -
Finally went, I think after COVID, the glen is a bit less glossy? 😂
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Glossy but still an amazing line and far less polished (by glen standards) than it's reputation would have you believe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tow-pyafjxM -
2020-08-14 -
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Pretty psyched to get my first V11.
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Suuuuuper glossy -
2019-10-22
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One of the harder V3s for sure.
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Feet are so polished, easier to campus. -
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Not obvious beta, slippery start. Feeling hard for V3! -
Satisfying climb to finish and top out. Took me a while to hit that first move!! -
2019-05-03 -
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do this climb to get a thorough ass kicking by the glen :)
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They call it the Glen's Titanic -
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2017-04-17 -
2017-04-17
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good send for the end of the day -
Slippery feet to start, otherwise straightforward. Nice landing. Had an audience of unimpressed kids. -
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2016-05-09
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polished -
classic
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Amazing problem
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2015-07-13
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very gloss. -
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Ignore the polished foot holds and campus the first move for the win. Fun, classic glen v3. -
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One of those brilliant stand out lines that beckons to be climbed. No guide book necessary to interpret the obvious: start here, go there, this is the plumb line in all it`s glory -
2014-06-19Seemed improbable. Two things helped me bag the send though.. a couple laps on the campus board and fresh new solutions.
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Fun warm up on a hot humid day.
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2014-06-02 -
Surement beaucoup plus glissant qu'il ne l'était... V3 dans le guide Topout, mais se rapproche de V5...
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Glass!
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2013-08-25
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2013-07-13
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2013-06-30
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Great climb, left hand up to a V, right up to a nice hold, left up again, and pull up to an easy top out
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2012-08-02
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Love this climb! Definitely harder than a v3. Polished feet.
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Classic! -
2012-05-21
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Slippery start, second hold was pretty painful.
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2010-04-03Hard 3 Slippery
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I'm sure there must have been a time when this problem wasn't a total piece of crap. -
LOL i thought this was a v0 in the book. Guess it got upgraded. have fun with your feet.
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Glassy feet with big moves. -
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right of passage
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Feet are ice but classic glen at its finest.
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Sneaky kneebar makes it more static and cool.
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Classic warm up problem. Must do if you climb in the glen -
Best climb ever
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Polished.
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got lucky with the friction -
Alpha males campus
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Feet so bad you may as well campus. -
I mean, look at it... :0 10/10 would recommend to a friend for a solid V3
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Feels magical once you finally get that first move
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Grease Lightning -
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Maybe was v3 when it first went up. Harder then higher ground and Mama Mia for sure
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10
onsights17
flashes157
redpointsTotal Sends: 184
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