Description:

"Preemie", 5.11a/b, ~20m
River Wall, Lower Blanket Canyon
Fixed draws

Reaching the first bolt is ~10a/b, and most 5.11 climbers will feel comfortable without a stick clip. Passing this bolt is one of the cruxes, but the bolt is at your shins and you're quite well protected.

Don't climb beyond the obvious 2 bolt anchor, where the draws switch from chain to nylon/dyneema - I haven't figured out the steep stuff at the top yet. It's more than a number grade harder than the rest of the route, so a mid-anchor seemed worthwhile.

This part of the canyon receives a cool breeze from the running water formerly known as the Blanket Glacier, and stays in the shade all day. When it's hot AF everywhere else, this is likely the most comfortable place to climb in all of Revelstoke. I also think that this route might stay dry in the rain...but time will tell.

There's a decent bivy cave after the 5th bolt, if a 1 day ascent feels too rushed.

It's easily identified as the farthest left of all the fixed draw routes. If you climb the route, let me know what you'd grade it. Happy sending!