Super Nova – 5.11a ↓
Description:
(8 pitches) 5.11a, 5.8, 5.6, 5.6, 5.9, 5.6, 5.9, 5.8
Starts with a tough, technical and smoothed out bit of rock that has you tring hard to get to the anchor. Good movement with easy climbing the rest of the way with spacey bolting. There are now two more pitches that begin in the garden above with the plans to extend it further. Known as Lucy Goosy FA Tyler Lunsford, Morgan Smith 5.10c.
P1 - 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor - Climb through slightly polished feet up the slopey blocky features and then make a move left to anchors.
P2 - 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor - Climbs up through the tube. Careful for some loose rock.
P3 - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Very spaced bolting.
P4 - 6 bolts, 3 bolt anchor - More spaced bolting.
P5 - 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Handful of slightly harder moves but well protected through a corner crux.
P6 - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Huge ledge holds to an anchor.
P7 - 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Good initial climbing through a small bulge to a traverse.
P8 - 6 bolts, 3 bolt anchor - Climbing eases up and follow bolts to a belay. There is a belay below a bulge (useful for rappelling or for linking pitches 7 & 8) and anchors above the bulge for the summit. The ledge above the anchor is a great place for lunch.
Descent - From the top of Pitch 8, rappel the route.
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Recent Sendage:
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2025-01-16 -
2023-12-19Linked pitches to do it in 4. Some quality sections -
2022-02-13
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2022-02-11Saved wills chalk bag. 434 2 laters back down. Fighting bananas Pitched the first and last two simo the rest
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2020-01-07Insecure first pitch and then pleasant, easy climbing to the top. The route is off camber and isn't quite the rock funnel that it looks like from a distance.
