Show Beta
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Wes Goodman: Avoid having to match by taking the lower pinch with your right hand and crossing left hand into the crimp.
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lloydlee: Matched the crimp before the big jump
Recent Sendage:
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Fun variation, found it harder. Crossing left hand over was nice instead of the nasty hand match -
I feel like this merits an upgrade -
Fun variation -
As far as eliminates go this was worth doing. If the original line was a benchmark V4 this should be pushing towards the harder end. -
More fun than Superfly imo
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More fun than the original line.
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The dyno was HUGE. A fun variation!
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2023-07-10
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2023-05-24
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Shouldn't be a seperate climb when it's just an eliminate at the same grade. -
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Felt clunky but got it done. Not my natural style. Felt harder than OG version IMO. Went direct to right hand below left hand crimp from the start. Kinda cool how this version skips so many holds but climbs decent ! -
more fun then superfly. bit harder as well -
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2023-01-24 -
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Better than the original
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Would’ve been a flash but I forgot about the rock behind me a dabbed big time. Silly but fun.
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Two sessions on this variation. Sent first go once I gave up on the pinch and tried for the crimp match.
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2022-08-16 -
Pretty ok. Fun catch however eliminate and awkward piano match. Kinda worth it -
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Excellent
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One of the more fun v4's I have done in Squamish - more consistent then superfly, with a very satisfying throw to a bucket. 1st try after doing superfly.
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I think this is more enjoyable than the standard route. -
Flash but have done superfly previously
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Probably more fun than the standard beta
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If you do superfly definitely give this a try, the swing feels so dope. -
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Did it the “real way”, without the left pinch and lunging straight to the right pinch from the start -
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2021-06-02 -
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More fun than the original! So cool. -
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2021-02-09 -
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Feels a bit harder than superfly. Fun variation.
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Send from 2014
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2020-08-01Did years ago. Forgot to log on Sendage
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2020-07-25
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More fun than superfly? -
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Definitely harder than regular Superfly if you do the left hand cross into the crimp to set up for the lunge, but it's a much better sequence than matching. Possibly V5? -
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2019-08-29
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Full scorpion sendage -
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2019-07-19
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2019-07-18 -
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2019-05-26 -
2019-05-06
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Awesome variation, slightly harder than the original.
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Right hand straight to the pinch, cross to the crimp, jump to the jug. Apparently this is the original Superfly beta. My new favourite way to climb this boulder!
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Looks impossible till you try it. -
2018-08-05
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2018-07-10 -
Matched the crimp, completely unnecessary. Just have better footwork
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Another great warmup problem! Too bad you can only flash one.
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2018-06-05
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Super fun, more fun than Superfly IMO
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I jumped for a thing and I grabbed it \o/
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2018-02-12Just as fun as superfly. So good!
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2017-10-28 -
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2017-05-06 -
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Thought it was hard until I did it, at which point...I thought it was still hard.
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2016-08-10
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Thanks Kareem for the excellent beta! -
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2015-09-23 -
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Top 100 for sure
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2015-08-10 -
2015-08-04
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2015-07-09 -
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Original found this way harder than superfly, but figured out new beta and it now actually feels like a V4. Trying to cross makes it feel so hard! -
2014-09-15
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2014-07-10
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Better than the original?...
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2014-06-13
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2014-05-07
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actually, really, really fun
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2013-09-14
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2013-08-24 -
2013-07-21
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1st try. Probably the more logical way to climb Superfly, honestly. -
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2012-07-13
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2012-06-15
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2012-06-15
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2006-05-18
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extra points if you dont match on the crimp
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2004-08-11
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Good dynamic movement warmup
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a little contrived, but better than the og line in my opinion
3
onsights27
flashes117
redpointsTotal Sends: 147
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