Swank Stretch – V5
Description:
Start matched on the big flat hold at the bottom of the seam. Shove your tips into the crack and climb up to good holds. Small fingers may be a plus for this one . . .
Show Beta
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adelaidekim: Switching to a left toe for the big move out right is so clutch (5'2") -
Wes Goodman: For talls: start dangling from your left heel on the block. Reach up left hand to the top seam, then bang out right hand to the good edge.
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nathanchow: Focusing on rotating the heel was key for me. -
nickbruce: I'm 6'1" with sausage fingers so this was pretty different than for my climbing partners. I started with a left heel and both hands on the start hold. Right hand into the crack, left hand higher crack. Shift heel in a little closer on the starting hold. Lock in arms real tight. Right hand to the low right rail - bump to nice jug with right. Left hand to same jug. Top out on jugs. -
Quentin Trollip: Start with high heel hook
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chloek: Skipped the ledges out right and went straight up off the flake near the start. -
Greg Bauch: Started with my feet low. Seemed to let me set up the hand sequence better -
Celina Meza: Girl beta-bump up left to intermediate then jug before moving out right.
Recent Sendage:
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2024-10-02 -
Insane heel. My left hamstring is still sore, but worth it
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Hard with fat fingers and lanky bod. Stays dry for a few hours in active rain though -
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Deducted a star because I strained my LCL
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2024-09-10Went left instead of right and that felt a lot easier than going right. Probably feels like a V2 when going left.
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Flashed above a 4 for once :)
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Can't believe I'd never tried this before -
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Probably would be v4 on the moonboard but the scary factor of jamming my tips bumps the grade up -
all in the first 2 moves
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2024-07-09Very hard if your fingers don't fit into the slots much.
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Day flash after fingers were less swollen and could fit inside the crack.
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Cool climb! Send train with my good friend Yvonne was cherry on top!
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2024-04-18
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2024-03-31 -
Eh climbing cracks that I don’t fit in isnt super my style
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That Big stretch puppy song was playing in my head the whole time. Solid climb - sent solo with 2 pads but had to practice the top out since i couldn't pad that section of it.
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This was the final boss for my left hamstring! So exciting. Periodically I’ve tried this boulder post-injury, and this season that heel is completely pain free! Woo! -
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2023-09-08
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My whack beta might've taken away from my enjoyment of this. Regardless, I found it dabby, awkward, and painful. Maybe one that looked cooler than it climbed for me. -
Pretty good! Second day on capper. Wish my fingers were a little skinnier! Funny topping out with people hanging out at lounge act.
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Tried once last year during my first outdoor sesh, could barely do the 2nd move. Managed to send first try today, pysched.
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Almost every time I come to Squamish I touch this thing. I've gone back and forth between betas. Had a humid morning session on stinger left that didn't go well, so I left that problem and finally found success here.
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2nd go yee
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sharp
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Thought this was a nemesis boulder for me. Got it in 3 rapid fire tries on a random Sunday, on the off day when I decided to boulder
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I'm washed
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2023-06-11 -
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Not to bad once you get the crimp strength to start
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Jam the tips in and trust the heel. Such an awkward first move
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2023-05-11
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Bunched up to start. Where’s my chalk? -
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2023-01-24was not expecting to flash it but it was a pleasant surprise, climbs really well, helps if you are tall. -
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Fun evening session with friends, surprisingly the cold wasn’t too bad!
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Fun going straight up the crack
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Fun.
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2022-10-04 -
Hated the start but decently enjoyable once you have the left hand crack. Probably will never climb it again -
2022-09-14
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Small fingers made this ez was just able to go up -
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Fun
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Fit 1/2 pad in
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2022-08-28 -
Hard for my sausage fingers
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2022-08-13
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Graham said "you haven't done it?! You're short, go straight up and you'll say 'what stretch?'" he was right.
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Only the begining is hard -
Man, those slots feel a million times better than they did a few years ago.super happy for Leo who ran several laps on this!
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2022-08-02 -
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2022-07-18finally a day where temps are crisp and fings aren't peeling -
Top 100
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Feeling boxed in with the heel start, maybe not tall people friendly. -
I found everything extremely awkward about this.. -
A little bit of everything. Really fun if you got lots of pads!
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2022-07-01
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Awkward first couple moves, but rest of it is fun. Tape helps more than you’d think to deal with the nasty sharp slots -
Crimp feels like a sharp jug if your fingers are small enough to squeeze in
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2022-04-16
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Tough, fingery start to easier and fantastic climbing -
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I slapped a slug to death with right hand hitting the rail and everything became slimy and nasty lol. A top 100 Classic!
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3rd try. Was very wet today but I definitely wanted to try this classic. Really cool sequence. A few small moves then one big one to a jug, fun! -
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Pretty cool -
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Fun.
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2021-08-25bit grim if you have thicc fingaz and the hips of an arthritic Alsatian
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2021-08-14 -
BIg ol' slap; Missed out on the flash by popping the start heel on the first go, went right after -
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2021-08-09
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First V5! So stoked!
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2nd go. Big fun moves with with an awkward heel hand match start. -
Super fun problem. Having little fingers realllyy helps. -
2021-07-07
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Gotta crank! -
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My nemesis problem.... Really awkward start with my long legs.... Finally sent but now my left knee is sore, lol.
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Sucks falling off in the crack, feels like you’re going to destroy your fingers. I did end up loving this problem though! -
Start was the hardest part, tiny crack crimps suuuck. The rest of the problem was very easy though
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Day flash, kind of annoying to wedge the fingers into the slot -
2021-04-01
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Felt like my fingers would break off.
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I had at least 10 excuses why I’d never ever climb this problem. Nice to put this to rest after writing it off with my sausage fingers many years ago. -
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2020-10-26Taking the 6 cause of my fat fingers. Had to stand on my tips before the send so I could fit in that first crack. -
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2020-09-08 -
Thought I flashed it but realized later that I tried it like once two years ago...
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2020-09-05
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I like tiny cracks -
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2020-08-29 -
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Such a fun climb. Really stoked to send this first go. -
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Man - it’s been forever since I climbed last - pre COVID. So, this is my first post COVID send. Was a super fun line.
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Not a good warmup -
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2020-07-12 -
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2020-07-05 -
Little fingers made this cozy. -
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2019-11-02
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Day tripped for the send, thanks Byron and Mel. -
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A retro-flash to add it to the log. Such a great climb. -
I've only climbed a few outdoor problems so far, but this one was superb hands down. -
Sneaky toe hook bicycle beta at the start made this problem much more enjoyable! -
2019-08-27 -
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Ouch. Fat fingers did not like this. -
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2019-06-30
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Mmm jugs -
2019-05-26Finally! Me and my fat fingers hate this problem. -
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2019-03-29 -
Great climb for tiny fingers :) -
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Fun one, my style. -
2018-09-07
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Tape up those fingertips! -
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2018-08-04This is a lemon. Horse shit
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Fingers didn't fit into the slots, but still felt around V5.
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ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow -
2018-07-15I am the best at high heel hooks.. not. sent as soon as i stuck the first move
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"Cram your tips" is right. -
awkward, painful
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2018-07-05Took so many tries over the years, but new beta from Cody unleashed it first try... -
The beta is to have small fingers. -
*Spoiler* If you have sausage fingers like me, it helps to start with your heel on the block
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Probably more fun for shorties.
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My fingers fit apparently! -
Favorite V5, very fun movement
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Happy with how quickly this went. Thank you to the kind people in the forest who gave me half their Larabar and 2 m&ms so that I could have enough energy to send! -
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So fun. That crack is so hurty!! -
2018-05-27
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2 sessions
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Feels hard if you're tall
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2018-05-05
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Hated it until I did it. Pretty fun. Never doing it again -
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Fun -
If your hands don't fit well in the slots you're in for a hardish V5. -
2017-08-12A lot easier if you have small fingers!
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2017-08-12Squamish Rampage
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2017-07-31
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Felt impossible for me until I turned my left toe slightly outwards for the big reach. Cool problem but I probably would have skipped it if it wasn't top hundo. -
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2017-07-23Meeh -
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2017-07-16
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Should have flashed, but blew the top out. Oh well -
2017-07-13
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Fortunate enough to have small enough fingers to make this a bit easier
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Hitting that jug! Ooooohhhh what a feeling!!
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2017-07-01
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My first V5 in Squamish! -
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Another climb that took way too many tries.
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tough for the grade -
2017-05-16
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2017-05-07Fun boulder that I got second go.
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Hurt my knee
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Unfortunately slipped doing the first move and fell into the hole. A fun climb nonetheless.
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2016-08-19 -
Having tiny micro-fingers would help!
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2016-08-06
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This makes you feel strong! Small fingers are helpful
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2016-07-08
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Gotta turn the heel left after the first move makes the second move go! So happy to have finally sent this -
great angle, a little bunch at start
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2016-05-24
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Flailed on this a year (or two) ago. Thought I'd give it a try today. Sent it first go. Everything just kinda worked out! Sweet problem
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Pretty rad. Putting it on my circuit of fun moderates.
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2016-04-28
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Fuck finally only had to be way stronger to climb this great problem. -
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2015-12-30Tonight sended! -
Stupid fat fingers don't fit in the crack, felt about 2 grades harder. Glad it's finally done, never doing it again. -
2015-10-04
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2015-10-04
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Small hands make this feel way easy.
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2015-09-22
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2015-09-07
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2015-08-18
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Heel hook to the big throw. Felt really soft...
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Slots
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2015-08-07
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finally got this problem soo hard with beefy fingers like mine :)
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Last year I couldn't do any moves.....first go this year :D
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2015-06-14
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Super cool. -
2015-05-31 -
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2015-05-10
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Went first go after struggling on it last year. I think I might be improving!
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2nd try, fingers fit perfectly
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Cold outside. -
2014-09-09
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Cool Problem! Positive holds
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2014-08-13 -
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Felt hard. And hurt
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Felt hard. And hurt
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2014-08-06
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One of those climbs that just clicked after awhile.
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2014-07-07If your fingers don't fit, you're gonna have a bad time
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Pretty classic. Fat sausage fingers!
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1st try after I tried years ago!
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3.5 days of work. The moves are so low percentage for me, just had to keep trying. -
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2014-05-17
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It went on the fourth attempt.
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third go. Cool move
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2013-08-09I promise to never disobey your orders any longer, Mama Miyamoto.
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2013-08-08
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Squamish wins, Nemesis day. -
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Tried to lockoff with my left arm. Found out later that I just needed to drop that right leg under and reach out . . .
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Did this climb in a polkadot dress with friends. -
2013-07-20
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2013-07-19I did not like the first move but after that it was alright...I guess
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glad i freeman flashed this today, worst climb in the world till you send it than top 100 -
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2013-06-19
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2013-06-12 -
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Heel hook at the start and moooooove out. Did it really static and my shoulder liked myself for it
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i superiorly dislike this climb, but it's top 100 so i felt obligated. fun once you can get your heel to stick and you start climbing on the juggy bits.
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2012-08-29
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This was my least enjoyable top 100 send so far. It just hurt, and left my finger tips bruised purple and cut. However, I can get less than half-pads in the crack, so I can see why smaller hands enjoy it more. I don't know how to grade it. For me it felt like V7.
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First V5 ever. The first few moves gave me a lot of trouble. Really helped to throw a heel right away, get my left hand in the deeper part of the crack and then my left in the slightly worse, lower part. Really fun throw for the right edge. Loved this problem. -
V5Anonymous User2012-07-24
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Little fingers climb. Not too exciting.
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2012-06-25
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2012-06-21
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2012-06-18
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V5Anonymous User2012-06-05
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2012-05-18ouch. But a good pain.
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Terrible start, with a fun finish. -
2011-08-18
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Super fun
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2011-08-08
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Pretty easy for small fingers! -
cool little overhang.
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2011-07-22Repeat
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2011-07-02
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In the tennies
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Finally... this thing has been my nemesis for some time. Those tiny as slots aren't big enough for my fingers!! Just managed to barely squeeze a quarter pad or so in there today. Not on my top 100.
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classic top 100
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Another great problem. Probably my last of the season, as I strained some tendons later in the day :(
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inicio incomodo
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V5Anonymous User2010-08-24
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First V5 onsight in 2010:) Tried to repeat last june (2012) and couldn't do it.
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just the first stretch and it's over. my fingers don't fit in that crack.
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super fun but really soft for the grade
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2009-09-21Little fingers = advantage -
1st move the most difficult to a great bumpity-bump -
heel hook on start hold and throw! -
Interesting climb, very compressed start (2 hands + heel on jug) to a longish move. It's height makes it a good one to go to alone though 2 pads would probably be needed.
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2009-04-30
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2008-08-21
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Really Small Cracks and Huge Jugs
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Ouch!
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Cool starting beta -
good
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2002-05-30 -
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Grade and quality height and finger size dependent.
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The holds to the right are on, going direct is harder and not necessary I think... Anyways, first try once I tried that
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Did it sometime in 2007.
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Pretty lucky to have little fingers!
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Having small fingers makes this soft for the grade. -
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Unexpected send... Good problem but a bit scrunched. -
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I found this to be an awkward start that turns into a nice line.
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V5Anonymous User
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Not friendly for the thick of fingers -
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What a whacky problem, tons of fun even though my fingers didn't fit in the crack
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i have fat fingers -
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This is a must-do climb!
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Sometime 08/2021. -
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get your fingees in there
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Straight up beta -
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Damn, I need to stretch more. -
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26
onsights84
flashes399
redpointsTotal Sends: 509
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