Description:

Description from Andy Generouxs website: https://www.ghostriverproductions.ca/resources/Kananaskis/ThrillerR.pdf

Thank you to Andy Generoux, Urs Kallen & Choc Quinn for their hard work.

Thriller *** S-5.8+, 585m Mt. Indefatigable
Andy Genereux, Urs Kallen & Choc Quinn, September 2023

A great new bolt protected moderate multi-pitch route on the slabs right of the classic traditional longer corner route Joy *** T-5.8 on Mt. Indefatigable in the south Kananaskis. Spectacular views and climbing on this long route. Established over three days due to weather and hauling the heavy load of bolts and batteries to see the route through to completion. One can now escape off Joy using this route if the weather turns or you plan too rappel this route from the top of the Joy corner using the top anchor found a couple meter’s to the right. Caution: To rappel this line requires two 60m ropes. Rappel descent takes about 1.5 hours or undertake the normal walk-off escape for Joy 45 minutes to an hour if you brought all your stuff up the route. Plan on 4-6 hours to climb the route. It’s a big day overall so it may take longer.

Caution: Although this route is fully bolt protected it has not been groomed to a modern sport standard.

Obvious loose stuff was removed on lead or by the seconds while establishing the climb. Overall this line has very good rock. Expect some spacious placements and to find some loose rocks on ledges It’s the Canadian Rockies after all. If parties are climbing on Joy any rock fall generated from the upper corner pitches on that route can threaten the upper pitches on Thriller. A good rule is to avoid climbing below other parties if you can.
Approach: Is the same as for the climb Joy from the Inter-Lakes parking lot take the trail west over the dam and stays above the lake (bike or walk) until below the scree slope on Mt Indefatigable 20-35 minutes. Head up the scree slope 25-35 minutes to the starts of both this climb and Joy corner dihedral.
Bikes save time on the way out.

Gear: Bring two 60m ropes if you plan to rappel the route. All belays have ring bolts to rappel. Need 15 draws 3 of which should be extendable to avoid drag on these long pitches.

P1) 5.5, 60m, 12 clips. Start directly below the dihedral for Joy and angle slightly right on slabs and
follow the bolts up easy slab climbing past some ledges with loose scree over an overlap to a belay.

P2) 5.6, 60m, 12 clips. Follows the best rock through some easy terrain with more small ledges with loose bits. Slightly harder climbing than P1.

P3) 5.7, 55m, 12 clips. Climbs a slightly right leaning line near the top of the pitch jog right into a shallow right facing corner to the belay found a few meters higher in the corner.

P4) 5.8+, 55m, 12 clips. Take the compact slab angling slightly right from the belay. Stay away from the corner on the left (loose blocks). Very steady slab padding over excellent rock to a hanging belay.

P5) 5.8+, 55m, 12 clips. Very sustained movement up to a small vegetated break. Continue sustained on the slab above the break to a comfortable belay on a small ledge.

P6) 5.8+, 60m, 14 clips. Head up 7m to an overlap and then continue above on sustained slab climbing to a shallow right facing corner. Move left to a belay on the slab immediately left of the corner.

P7) 5.7, 60m, 12 clips. Generally slightly less sustained climbing heads up on more featured rock to a small ledge to belay.

P8) 5.8+, 60m, 14 clips. From the belay head up and slightly right to enter a shallow right facing corner to a hidden bolt. Use an extended draw and then head directly up the slab right of the corner to where the corner meets an overlap surmount the overlap and a few more bolts has you to a small ledge to belay.

P9) 5.8, 60m, 12 clips. Head more or less straight up the more featured slabs to a small stance to belay located just left of the edge of the big drop.

P 10) 5.8+, 60m, 14 clips. Climbs the slab heading up to the top edge just to the right of where the Joy dihedral tops out. There is a tricky move just below the anchor to finish.

Descent: There are two options. The first: Rappel the route which requires two 60m ropes and takes approximately 1.5 hours. Using this rappel method do not throw your ropes off. Rather I recommend stacking them and dragging them down the slabby terrain as you rappel. All stations have two ring bolts.
The second: Descend using the Joy Scramble Walk-off Descent which requires that you bring all your stuff up the route as you do not come back to the start. The Joy method takes roughly 45 minutes if you find the best way. From the top of the corner move a couple meters left and then down climb a short section on the northeast side of the summit ridge. Do not continue up the summit ridge on the south west side. On a thin trail head uphill to a notch with a small scramble section this takes a bit of gear if you have it. Past this section you quickly reach a perfect little meadow to change out your footwear and pack your gear. From here Option 1 (BEST): Switchback down the hill and follow a trail that curves around the first gully. Follow the faint trails and count the gullies. You'll wander through some thick trees on a good trail to reach the 3rd gully, which is wide and all scree. Scree ski all the way back down to the main hikers trail above the lake.

Option 2: on the Joy walk-off scramble is the same as above, but go down the second gully. This
involves occasional down-climbing, tons of loose and sharp rocks, and generally stinks compared to the easy 3rd class gully. Try not to end up in this one, but at least it doesn't cliff out anywhere if you do so by accident.