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  craigmcgee:   The route is 50m long and ascends the right side of a large grey pillar, situated a few meters to the left of Nemesis. With lots of technical climbing and four crux sections, it will be a tricky onsight at the grade, especially after the chalk has washed off. The route is likely climbable only on cool days, or in mid to late August or September, when the waterfall is smaller. Otherwise, a significant amount of spray could get you quite wet. Even when it's dry, expect the occasional mist or spray. Due to the length of the pitch, you'll need to rappel from the top down to another rappel station at 20 meters. The bottom three bolts are placed closely together due to poor and hollow rock, but the rock quality improves significantly after that. I think it's best to belay at the glue-in bolt on the ledge below the start of the route until the climber has passed the first crux, which surpasses the first overlap at the 5th bolt. After that, you can move down the talus to see the climber for the rest of the route.

Recent Sendage:

• _{5.11d ^↓}
  
  Maddy Marchuk

  _2024-09-07
  “More tick marks than Acephale up here”
• _{5.11d ^↓}
  
  marcus norman

  _2024-09-07
  Stellar day out w the birthday boy (he’s all grown up!). Rope drag is an issue on this so skip lots of bolts or bring long slings. Thx to Craig and Lindsey for the line and the path of chalk leading to the top!
• _5.11d
  
  craigmcgee

  _{2024-09-03 (FA)}