Xanadu – 5.8 (trad)
Description:
Good rock and lots of fun climbing with short difficulties with lots of cruisey terrain. The trad protection is as typical for coastal basalts: occassional bomber placements with some runouts while climbing on superb holds.
1) 5.7 30m. Scramble up easy steps to a low angle slab. Climb the slab as it trends left and then direct up a ramp into a corner. Work up the corner (5.7) to reach an easier rib. Follow the rib and where it butts into an over-vertical wall make an exposed step left into another corner. Climb this corner to a nice ledge and belay. (3 bolts + Trad single rack - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.8 30m. Leave the belay to the right and pull into a steep corner crack (5.8). Climb the crack and continue up another crack. Open ribs and short walls up to the shared anchor with SH (2 bolts + Trad single rack - rappel ring anchor)
Descend by scrambling up to the South Peak lookout and walk off left via the Lotus Land anchor access path or make 2x 30m rappels.
Recent Sendage:
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2020-05-28 (FA)We climbed this route on the first ascent only on trad gear but a few bolts have been added since: three bolts on the first pitch and two on the second pitch. It's a fun route and great to have a climb of this grade and length up the Great Wall.
